5 of us went to the Urs Recher workshop. It was a fantastic experience which will stick with me for many years. Urs' technical skills in physically reading the light itself was astounding, being under his guidance was very awesome. His lighting is simple, but effective. Urs taught us to use 1 light at a time, and each light was there for its own purpose. therefore, being able to correct something little, wouldn't change the whole setup.
Also whilst at Sun Studios i ordered my Canon 5DmkII with 24-70mm lens :):):)
* For textured surfaces a more harsh light is used.
* Soft light is obtained through lights CLOSE to subject with softboxes, same size / bigger than object.
* Hard light is obtained through lights FAR AWAY from subject, with eg, P70
* Directional light plays no part in hard light.
* Distance in photographing an object is VERY important.
* P70 = 70 degrees.
* Always use the main light source before adding the extra lights.
* Be aware of flare in the lens.
* Control the main light!
* For portraits, be aware of reflections in eyes, background gradients, skin reflectance/luminance, colour saturation increases with hard light.
* With particular portraits, use background light first
* 15 - 240, contains printable detail (histogram)
* Angle light away from the model.
* Angled light on face is more sharp closer to face.
* Transparent glasses when light is closer.
* For groups of people, or singular, create a "wall" of light with 3 P70 lights reflected away from subject and bouncing off white walls.
* T01 (min) Multiple flashes when in long exposure do 1, as the other flashes will be the same.
* Chrome, use acrylic board. Strip light as fill.
* In portraits, turning light away = graduation, use background lit with grid.
* C Light vs. EM light. These strip lights/softboxes with or without flags
------________________-------- 180=C light
\ /
\ / Light is more gradient, and spread is further
------________-------- 90=EM light
\ /
\ / Light is less gradient, spread is less
* ISO (not camera) is for flash duration
* ISO 2827 duration
* Effective = 0.5
* Total = 0.1
* T0.5 on 1/12000 is bag (shuttertime 1/30)
*T0.1 on 1/8000 is better (clearer)
*T0.5 is about 3x faster than T0.1
* Try not to modify flash curve
* Classic Discharge Curve=T0.5 = 1/3 x T0.1
*Competitors Technique=T0.5 = 1/5 x T0.1
* Pre Flash=T0.5= 1/5 x T0.1
*Bron Cut-Off Technique is where the discharge of flash at T0.5 at 50% is almost the same as T0.1 at 10% flash output.
* Bron Pre flash is where the power pack discharges a small amount of flash before the camera is delayed, so the flash output can be shorter but have the maximum amount of flash discharged.
*The higher intensity of flash, the colder it is. The Longer the flash duration, the warmer the colour cast.
*5500K is best recommended.
*Hot flash = Cold light
*With Cut-Off technique, at power output 9= 5380K
*Power output 9.5=5600K
*Bron Scoro out Graphit only do cut-off technique.
*Low power settings put stress onto the pack.
*Power 6-10 is optimum.
*1/250 Sync cable only
*1/200 on RFS
*Defocusing the "para" light is spread to outside of the separate panels, creating 24 separate lights.
*UV lights can create awesome, night glow with simple highlighters, white fabrics.
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